Surfing

1 december 2017 - Raglan, Nieuw-Zeeland

The next day was awesome! The surfing was going good and I was really happy. It remembered me of my time in Australia and doing some surfing over there. Then I had three lessons to in a surfing camp before I went to the next place, called Yamba. I met some awesome people over there, went surfing every day with those guys from the hostel and the manager (he was teaching us). I also had a really nice birthday over there, but will just stick on my surfing over here. . otherwise I could go on for hours about that place. When you want to read about that. .it’s still on my Australia blog but in Dutch I think.

There was a big wave coming! Actually not that big but for us it was bigger than where we have been practising on. We were waiting with three people to catch that wave. . we saw him coming closer and closer. . so PADDLE!!! There he comes!!

The wave was under us and then I saw water coming on nose of my surfboard . . that was not good. More water got on it and then you already know what’s gonna happen. . and the worst sting. . you have a second to imagine it! The nose got “stuck” in the water and my board went vertical. . so I was as well. . . then we just flipped over and I was spinning under the water. . and again..  I was (like I was told) protecting my head with my arms. You never know where your board or your head is gonna land on!

When I was on the surface again I saw that the other two didn’t had cached the wave either, that was making me feel better! Then our instructor had to laugh and said that he had saw that coming.  Where we were trying to catch the wave we couldn’t have made it anyway. The wave broke right on top of us, when we would have been 10meter further in the sea then we would have had a chance.  But it was funny to watch he said.

Better next time.

The next day and also my last surfing lesson I tried a smaller board but that didn’t went well so after one hour I just switch it back to the beginner one. After that it went better but not as good as the second day. But it was fun anyway!

My surfing lessons were over and so was my time there. I wanted to go towards Paihia, that was a six hours drive. I decided to just drive and see how it goes. The further I got that’s the better it was for the next day. One of my roommates was leaving that day as well, she doesn’t have a car but she is hitchhiking.  When I asked her where she wanted to go next she said Auckland. I said that she could drive with me then, I was hiding that way anyway. Then she said that she was staying at a friend so I asked if he had a couch for me, lucky me he had.

Foto’s